Vintage Engagement Rings: Guide to Four Eras - Gem Society (2024)

What, exactly, does "vintage" mean?

A soon-to-be-engaged friend once asked me this while he was trying to choose a ring. Whether the love of your life wants a vintage engagement ring or you're just "window shopping," don't worry. The explanation is actually very simple.

In this article, you'll learn what makes a ring "vintage" and the different styles and design elements vintage engagement rings might have. Then, we'll give you some examples of modern yet vintage-inspired designs as well as some authentic vintage rings.

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What Makes an Engagement Ring "Vintage"?

"Vintage" refers to anything at least 20 years old, while "antique" refers to anything at least 100 years old. When it comes to engagement rings, "vintage" usually signifies the ring's style rather than its age.In general, if you're looking for a vintage engagement ring, you're really looking for a modern, vintage-style engagement ring setting.

If you're visualizing a simple engagement ring, you're most likely looking for a design from the "Retro Era" (1940-1960). However, most other vintage designs tend to be more ornate.

If your spouse-to-be frequents second-hand shops, they might prefer an older ring to a vintage-inspired modern one. Check out antique shops and ask family members for any heirloom rings you could have. If you're going this route, read our article on antique engagement rings.

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Eras and Inspiration for Vintage Engagement Rings

Aside from age, there's not much to dictate style for vintage engagement rings. Technically, even relatively modern rings from the 1990s can be considered "vintage." However, we'll discuss four eras that modern vintage styles frequently emulate. See what catches your eye.

Victorian Era (1835-1900)

In the Victorian Era, engagement rings vary widely in designs and materials. (In fact, Victorian jewelry can be subdivided into early, middle, and late period styles). However, Victorian rings were generally yellow or rose gold and often included diamonds. Rows, halos, and clusters of diamonds became popular during this era.So, in some ways, a yellow gold double-halo ring could be an example of a Victorian-inspired vintage engagement ring.

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Popular Colors

Since blue was the eponymous Queen Victoria's favorite color, turquoise and blue enamel appeared often in jewelry from this period. Pearls were also featured frequently. Since perliculture hadn't been perfected yet, pearls in jewelry from this era were natural, and small seed pearls were more common than larger ones. Other white gemstones like moonstone and opal were also popular.

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Diamond Cuts

Although large diamonds were uncommon at this time, consumers began to wear diamond solitaires. However, most diamonds were old mine cuts, old European cuts, step cuts, or rose cuts, since modern diamond cuts like the round brilliant hadn't been invented yet

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Victorian Motifs

Popular Victorian motifs included bows, hearts, birds, and snakes. Navette or marquise shapes were also popular, either as a gemstone shape or in the overall design. In addition, the bypass setting was popular during this period (another common choice for modern styles as well).

Edwardian Era (1900-1920)

If you're into intricate, lacy designs, you'll love jewelry from theEdwardian Era.

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Rings from this period were generally platinum and included intricate metalwork called filigreein designs featuring scrolling, ribbons, and vines. Floral motifs were also popular.

Although diamonds and pearls continued to be popular, colored gemstones appeared in jewelry more frequently. Old mine cuts, old European cuts, and rose cuts were the most common cuts for diamonds in this period.

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Art Deco Era (1920-1940)

In contrast to the lacy lightness of Edwardian styles, Art Deco was all about bold geometry and repeating patterns. Instead of curvy, flowing filigree, Art Deco rings often included metalwork with repeating, sharp angles and tiny beads called milgrain. This style has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity in recent years.

  • The octagon halo, milgrain, and step-cut diamonds in the band are elements of Art Deco style. Check out this ring. © James Allen. Used with permission.

  • Bold, open, geometric design with lots of color makes this Art Deco ring stand out. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

  • This ring also incorporates geometric elements. The asscher-cut diamond is another popular choice for an Art Deco vintage engagement ring. Take a look at the video. © James Allen. Used with permission.

  • Another example of open design, the repeating geometry in this topaz engagement ring is certainly Art Deco. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

    Step-cut diamonds like emerald and asscher cuts became fashionable, and colored gemstones, especially rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, were especially popular.

    However, during the Great Depression, many consumers couldn't afford these expensive gemstones, so they opted for more affordable alternatives instead, including amethyst, citrine, garnet, and glass.

    Retro Era (1940-1960)

    Prior to World War II, few engagement rings featured a center diamond. However, after the highly successful De Beers diamond marketing campaign, which began in the 1940s, engagement rings almost exclusively featured diamonds.

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    Unlike earlier rings, engagement rings from this "Retro Era" featured simpler designs. Solitaire rings and baguette side stones were quite popular, and the typical size of the center stone grew larger once the Depression ended.

    Since the non-military use of platinum was banned during World War II,yellow and rose gold became the metals of choice for engagement rings in the United States during this period. Many rings from this era were two-toned, with both yellow gold and white gold in the design.

    A modern round brilliant diamond in a simple gold design might just describe your grandmother's engagement ring, and this nostalgia makes these rings popular today.

    Engagement Rings from Recent Decades

    In the 1960s, Jacqueline Kennedy's two-stone diamond and emerald engagement ring brought colored gemstones back into fashion. Art Deco styles were also popular.

    In the late 1970s, disco styles were bold and large. Rings from this decade also featured geometric designs.

    In the 1980s, Princess Diana's famous sunburst halo sapphire engagement ring inspired a wave of imitations. Colored gemstones and pear shapes were popular.

    The 1990s are the most recent decade that can be considered "vintage." Designs were bold and minimalistic, and marquise-cut diamonds were especially popular.

    Vintage Engagement Ring Designs

    Vintage engagement rings often incorporate aspects of styles from multiple eras, blending them into something new. Check out these rings that combine elements of Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco design.

    • In this vintage engagement ring, the metals appear like ribbons forming a heart shape, elements of Victorian or Edwardian jewelry. However, using two-tone metals and a relatively small, minimalistic design evokes the Retro Era. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

    • Using a double halo around a marquise-shaped ruby is a clear indication of Victorian inspiration. However, the chevron shapes on the side give this ring an Art Deco element. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

    • This pearl engagement ring features Edwardian-style floral filigree, Victorian-inspired halo, and Art Deco geometric patterns to the side. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

    • With broad, open design and plenty of milgrain, this ring is clearly Art Deco-inspired. However, the marquise-shaped emerald is a nod to Victorian style. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

      Some vintage-inspired engagement rings incorporate modern design aspects, too. Take a look at how these rings blend the old with the new.

      • Although the strong angles and geometry might make you think Art Deco or the 1970s, the small size is part of a recent minimalistic trend. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

      • While the chevrons and geometric details are completely Art Deco, the asymmetry in the octagon halo is a modern design element. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

      • While the bypass ring became popular in the Victorian Era, square-shaped stones were not widespread until the 1970s. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

        Not Sure What Kind of Ring to Get?

        If you're planning a surprise proposal and you're not sure what kind of ring to get, start by checking with friends and family. Pinterest and Instagram are always good places to look for ideas.

        You can also start by asking yourself some basic style questions to help narrow your search. For example, does your intended prefer nature-inspired designs or geometric patterns? Lots of diamonds in elaborate settings or fewer stones in simpler styles?

        Where Should I Shop for a Vintage Engagement Ring?

        If you're buying online, James Allen has a great selection of beautiful vintage engagement rings. Plus, they're the best place online to shop for a center diamond. So, if you want a diamond engagement ring, you'll be able to find the stone that's perfect for you.

        However, even if you're picking from a few dozen vintage engagement rings, you still might not find that perfect one. If you're looking for a truly unique vintage-style engagement ring, chooseCustomMade. Their experts will help you create the perfect ring, even if you're not quite sure what you want yet.

        Vintage Engagement Rings: Guide to Four Eras - Gem Society (2024)

        FAQs

        How to date a vintage engagement ring? ›

        First, check for hallmarks and a maker's mark on the inside of your band. These markings may provide information about the jeweller who originally created the piece, its country of origin, and sometimes even the date of manufacture.

        What is the old rule for buying an engagement ring? ›

        One of the most infamous wedding etiquette rules revolves around how many months' salary one should spend on the engagement ring. It's known as the "three months' salary" rule, and it implies that a buyer should put three months of their salary toward a sparkler for their future spouse.

        Do vintage engagement rings keep their value? ›

        Price is determined by demand, and when it comes to antique rings, there are certain time periods that are very popular in today's market. We find that rings from the two jewelry periods Art Deco and Edwardian hold the highest value.

        How do I find out how much my engagement ring is worth? ›

        An experienced jeweler is the best way to assess the value of your piece. During this process, known as an appraisal, the jeweler will evaluate several factors such as the materials used to craft the jewelry, the age of the piece, quality, and other existing conditions.

        What are the characteristics of a vintage engagement ring? ›

        A vintage engagement ring is a ring with an antique style, such as one that's designed with inspiration from the Victorian, Edwardian, or Art Deco time periods. Vintage settings often feature beautiful intricacies, like milgrain and filigree.

        How to tell if a vintage ring is real? ›

        Hallmarks and Stamps: Check for hallmarks, stamps, or maker's marks on the jewelry. These marks can provide valuable information about the metal's purity, the jeweler's or manufacturer's identity, and the piece's origin.

        Is $20,000 too much for an engagement ring? ›

        According to tradition, the amount you choose to spend on an engagement ring should approximate the amount of your monthly salary times two. By this measure, anyone who earns $2,000 a month should be looking at models in the $4,000 range. For someone earning $10,000 a month, a $20,000 ring would be about right.

        Is it OK to wear an old engagement ring? ›

        There's no such thing as bad luck when it comes to wearing an old engagement ring – only good luck. After all, you're wearing a symbol of love and commitment. So as long as you're comfortable with it, go ahead and rock that ring with pride.

        How much can you sell an old engagement ring for? ›

        A quick sell to a jewelry store or diamond buyer should yield you close to 50% of the current diamond retail value and the metal weight of the setting/mounting (often times $50-$150) with a little extra for the smaller diamonds (usually less than $100 if the diamonds are small).

        Why are vintage rings so cheap? ›

        VALUE. Older rings are, by their very nature, used, secondhand pieces. This can give couples some surprising bargains and lower prices to choose from when compared to new, modern rings, especially when comparing prices per carat of the ring's stones.

        What is classed as an antique ring? ›

        The prevailing definition of antique – in relation to furniture or jewellery – is any creation that is a century old or more. Using this definition, all rings crafted before 1922 are considered antiques, while any ring made after that date falls into the vintage or modern category.

        How can you tell how old an engagement ring is? ›

        Hallmarks and Maker's Marks: One of the primary indicators of a jewelry piece's age is the presence of hallmarks and maker's marks. These marks are often stamped on the jewelry itself and provide valuable information about its origin and date of creation.

        Is there an app to value rings? ›

        ALL ABOUT THE APP

        Diamond Valuer was created to explain the process of valuing a diamond ring to you and give you an estimated value of your ring based on that information.

        What is the golden rule for engagement ring prices? ›

        According to this 'standard,' you should spend two months of your salary on your beloved partner's engagement ring. While it's not wrong to follow this rule, it's not required! The two-month rule isn't rooted in any cultural tradition. It started out as a marketing strategy by the diamond corporation De Beers.

        How to value an old diamond ring? ›

        The easiest way to determine the approximate resale value of a diamond ring is to deduct 30% from the original purchase price. There are other ways to achieve a more precise self-evaluation for your ring, which take into account market conditions, the cut of the diamond, type of precious metal, and consumer demand.

        How to tell if vintage jewelry is valuable? ›

        We recommend taking the piece to a jeweler to be tested. They will have professional tests that will determine whether your jewelry is real as well as the purity of the metal itself. A certified appraiser will be able to provide the value of the piece as well.

        How do you value a vintage ring? ›

        How To Assess the Value of Antique Jewellery
        1. Do you trust your source? ...
        2. What does your instinct tell you? ...
        3. Is it in good condition? ...
        4. How high is the quality of the stones? ...
        5. Is the design attractive? ...
        6. What is its historical context? ...
        7. Are there any hallmarks? ...
        8. Which metal is it?

        How old does a ring have to be to be vintage? ›

        Most people refer to 'vintage' jewellery as pieces that are between 50 and 100 years old. Certain eras with distinct styles may be referred to as vintage even if the jewellery from that time isn't yet fifty years old. For example, jewellery from the 1980s has mass appeal due to the recent style renaissance of that era.

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